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Battery mounting is always a pain. The power source for this robot was going to be 1800mah nicads so I machined up some quick nylon mounts. I wanted to leave airspace between the packs to help them cool during battle (each Co40 motor can draw 40 amps) as well as during recharge. So just taping them together on the deck was out of the question. |
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Here they are mounted in the back of the robot. I tried to flank the drive wheels with the heaviest components (batteries, gearboxes) to increase traction. (As it turned out I didn't do a good enough job and the robot was mostly uncontrollable. But more about that later.) In this picture you can also see: the custom aluminum motor mounts and the #25 chaindrive between the gearboxes and the bearing mounts. |
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For this project I decided to check out a Vantec controller, wired up here nice and neat. Also I wanted the option of jumping to 28v. Although it didn't malfunction at all, I couldn't get the cross-channel mixing to work evenly so I ended up doing the mix on my transmitter. For all you Vantec users, be sure to follow the instructions and wire EVERY ground and power pin. I checked with the manufacturer of the screw terminal block and each circuit is only rated for 15 amps.
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Even worse, all of my robots (except Ominous Brick) have utilized some form of pneumatics. No different on this one; the main weapon would have some air powered features. So here I am checking my paintball regulator output to make sure it's set to 140PSI. In the vise sits the long single-acting cylinder that forms the basis of the weapon. |
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By this time I was sure that I would be in the 12.5 kg category, not the 25 kg one, so I was worried about Andrew Lindsey's Spike3 robot. It's mean. So I figured the best way to deal with him was to just keep him off me, thus a long weapon. Combined with the wheel geometry of this robot, it too proved to be exceptionally useless. |
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